Best Ski Binding Reviews 2018

Considering that ski technology has rapidly evolved and the bindings have had to match them, the price of bindings will, for the most part, depend on the type you get and its features. Just like all skiing gear, the stronger and more aggressive you are, the more heavy-duty your equipment should be, which consequently will see an increase in price.

Alpine bindings generally cost less than alpine touring bindings, because they are fitted with technology that allows you to go uphill and into the backcountry. Next, telemark bindings are typically the cheapest option of all, owing to the fact that they have fewer working parts. Whether you buy cheap ski bindings or a pair with all the bells and whistles, it’s strongly recommended that you get them mounted appropriately in order to keep you on your skis.

Ski bindings help you stay attached to your skis, and also serve as an important piece of safety equipment. Not only do they come in a wide range of sizes, but they can be ordered with a myriad of features as well.

Given that there are several different types of ski bindings and brands available, the list of features to look for can get extensive, but here are a few important ones:

• Brakes - to stop the skis from sliding away when left in the snow
• Anti-friction Device (AFD)– rests under the front of the ski boot and reduces lateral friction between the boot and binding.
• Integrated Bindings - allow for easy mounting, changes, and adjustments.
• Damping Materials - determine the level of vibrations emitted from the skis.
• Riser Plates - are fitted between the ski and the binding so that the latter is mounted above the ski.
• Elastic Movements - provide a certain level of shock absorption, and in most cases, prevent the skis from being released inadvertently.
• A Lifter - is more of a racing feature and is designed to boost edge hold.

This is where you need to pay attention! The construction and design of ski bindings varies across the different types, and the type of skiing you’re pursuing (uphill or downhill). Alpine are your traditional downhill ski bindings and are designed to keep your boot locked down at all times, and can’t be used for backcountry or uphill skiing.

If you’d like to explore backcountry or uphill ski runs, Frame Alpine Touring (AT) are the type to go with. These feature a plate under your foot to hold the toe and heel pieces together, and it releases so that you can walk with skins on your skis. Next up are Tech Alpine Touring (AT), which are the lightest option on the market.

Although there are several types of AT ski bindings, there are two common design features: the toe piece with two metal pins that allow you to pivot your toe when walking uphill and the heel piece that detaches from your boots but stays on your skis when you’re skinning through the backcountry or walking uphill. As mentioned earlier, telemark ski bindings are the original backcountry bindings, where your heel is never locked down, allowing you to always pivot your toe.

Race bindings rest on a narrow platform simply because they’re narrow at the waist. Further, they generally are outfitted with more metal components for super durability and have higher DIN ranges to achieve higher speeds. To explain briefly, the DIN range is an acronym for Deutsches Institut für Normung (German Institute for Standardization), which is the industry standard for release force settings for ski bindings. These settings vary by weight, height, age, ability, and boot size, and are generally set up by a shop technician.

Some common DIN ranges include .75-4.5 for skiers under 109 pounds, 2-9(10) for adult skiers under 150 pounds, 4-12 for skiers less than 200 pounds, and lastly 9-16 for expert and seasoned skiers over 190 pounds. Take note that the higher the DIN range, the more durable the ski bindings will be, so if you buy ski bindings with a high DIN setting or ones with steel or metal components, they will hold up longer and will be more durable than low DIN-setting ski bindings.

The brakes are another component to pay attention to and are the arms that attach to the heel piece and stick out on the sides of your skis. These are designed to stop your skis after release so that you can retrieve them quickly in order to prevent danger to other skiers. The waist width of your skis will determine the width of your ski brake (distance between the two brake arms). For example, if you have skis that are 80mm wide at the waist, it’s recommended that you buy ski bindings that are at least 80mm in width, but no wider than 95mm.

Unless specified by the manufacturer, ski bindings are, for the most part, maintenance-free, but it’s highly encouraged to have them inspected by a professional before the start of each season. Although you can mount ski bindings yourself, it’s wise to have them installed by a certified technician because they are such an important piece of safety equipment and need to function as designed.

Before getting your ski bindings mounted, you will typically be asked to complete a mount form with a few details, such as your height and boot sole length. The mounting position determines your skis’ performance in different snow conditions and terrain. Some ski manufacturers make this process a whole lot easier by providing a default mounting position that works well for most skiers most of the time.